Marrakech

A two hour flight from Provence and we were in another world. A world of chic riads (small homes/hotels), gracious people, donkeys, camels, cobras, calls to worship and rose petals on your tablecloths. A bit of a culture shock? Yes. A new perspective? Yes. An appreciation for an ancient and admirable culture? Certainly.

We hope the following pictures and captions convey some of our impressions and experiences. We are grateful particularly to Pilou Brown who arranged our riad stay (http://www.houseofwonders.com/) , to Leslie Dach and Mary Dickie who recommended our wonderful guide Mohammed, to Mohammed for his friendship and wisdom, and to the people of Marrakech who amazed and welcomed us.

Cobras, snake charmers and no Mallory or Julie anywhere nearby

Lunch at Riad Kniza, owned by Mohammed and his wife

The cornucopia style fireplace at Riad Dar Doukkala

The courtyard of a 12th century university, where students studied and followed the teachings of Mohammed that "the pen of the scholar is more precious than the blood of the martyr"

An intricately carved wooden entrance

View from a student's room at the University

A stunning wooden chandelier, an example of the artisanship which still exists in Marrakech

A glimpse of a beautiful door with surrounding tiles

Rose petals in the lovely courtyard at Riad Kniza

Shane with an ancient daggar

A typical souk (market) scene, with Mohammed in the right foreground

Syd and Shane walking through a typical souk

Mohammed helping Shane bargain for a small craft box

Strolling through a souk

Yes, that's a live snake around Shane's neck

Mal and Syd buying babouches (leather slippers)

Shane, a snake, and our wonderful guide Mohammed. Mohammed has guided five U.S. presidents, and the likes of Brad Pitt and Will Smith. From him we learned that Muslims and Christians share fundamental values, and that friendship and respect transcends cultural misunderstanding.

The ancient Jamaa el fna at dusk. This mind startling market center--a world heritage sight--has existed since caravans of traders peddled their wares here many centuries ago.

A mosque overlooking Jamaa el fna

A Morrocan casserole dish - this one held chicken with lemons and olives

Tajine dishes at lunch - olives, eggplants, tomatoes, chick peas, lamb

Oranges with yogurt, dates and honey

Julie and Shane doing the tourist thing--and enjoying it wholeheartedly

Shane the camelboy...

Yes, the camel did get up and walk around after this photo of Mal and Syd

Mal at the beautiful Jardin Marjorelle

A traditional fountain at the Jardin Marjorelle. Fountains like this exist in homes and buildings all over Marrakech, and represent oases in the desert landscape

Women in a cooperative near Essaouira extracting argan oil from the argan nut. The oil is then sold as skin and massage oils, with the funds going back into the cooperative to support the divorced or widowed women members.

Camel's view on the route to Essaouira

Syd, Shane and Mal at the coastal town Essaouira, about two hours from Marrakech

Mal in Essaouira

A snippet of the sights and sounds of Jamaa el fna....click on the photo to see the video

Washington homecoming

On January 30, we pulled the children out of school for a week and a half and headed back to the United States. They enjoyed EVERY minute of the trip, beginning with the relaxing 9 hour flight back to Washington.

Shane was THRILLED to see his best friend (since they were babies), Collin. They are like two puppies together...always laughing, rolling around, wrestling, having pillow fights and laughing some more. We picked Collin up as soon as we arrived and I cried when I saw the BFFs (best friends forever) together. They didn't skip a beat...it was as if we had never left.

As soon as we picked up Collin, we immediately picked up Danielle, Mal's BFF since they were in kindergarden. Danielle has already been to visit us in Aix once and we are hoping her summer plans will include an extended visit to "Camp Aix-en-Provence." The girls spent most of their time together laughing at anything and everything. They say, "laughter is the best medicine"....well these are two VERY healthy girls!

Danielle and Collin spent the night with us at the hotel. The double sleepover was a huge hit! The kids really enjoyed the swimming pool, room service and watching, "Alvin and the Chipmunks!"

My parents were the icing on the cake, breaking up their vacation in warm Texas to visit with us for five days. We really enjoyed their three-week visit in Aix last September, but were just thrilled they were willing to drop everything to fly to Washington.



Mallory and Shane enjoyed spending time with Nana and Papa, especially when they felt sleepy and cuddly from jet-lag!

My brother David also dropped everything to visit with us in Washington. David and his family live in Southern California and will soon be moving to Panama, so it was a special treat to spend time with him. Our immediate family was all together with the exception of my big sis, Priscilla, who we hope will visit in 2008.

Dad with his four sons, Kirk (who, along with his wife, Suzanne hosted us for a wonderful day at his home in Catlett, VA), Tim, David and Al, Jr.)


Suzanne and her horse Laddy provided great entertainment for the kids. Laddy is older and required Suzanne's encouragement and pacing to keep up a bit of a trot. It was a great workout as I think Suzanne must have run 20 laps!

We spent two days in NYC and were blessed to spend time with Syd, Jr, Amy and lovely Lyla. She is a gorgeous, confident young lady who will be one of the "Gap" babies on the in-store and on-line summer clothing campaign. She's the one with the BIG blue eyes!

Syd, Jr's band, Les Savy Fav, is playing to rave reviews and was on the Conan O'Brien show while we in the states. They recently played in London and will be back in Barcelona in late May. We are keeping our fingers crossed that Amy and Lyla can join Syd, Jr for a lovely visit in Aix. Check out http://www.lessavyfav.com/!!

Lyla Forest Butler

While in NYC, I attended several meetings for St. Jude, including a Promesa y Esperanza radiothon with my dear colleagues, Beth Desai, Caroline Gould, Tim Bayly and Susan Decker. The event was part of an international radiothon with over 20 stations raising more than $6 million for the children at St. Jude.

I also attended the 10th annual Gourmet Gala in Washington which raised over $600,000 for St. Jude. The event was a terrific success and I was quite proud to represent St. Jude and enjoy such a memorable evening.

Syd and friend Joe Tartt at one of our favorite Bethesda restaurants, Raku.

We loved spending time with dear friends, Victor and Cristina Rivera.

Shane was the guest of honor at Worthington Street playdate hosted by good friend Andrew (in black). Friends Scotty, Ethan and Bliss were part of the celebration which included Shane's American favorite dessert, Rice Crispie treats!

Mallory and Danielle were thrilled to join in the party, especially because Andrew's family has a new puppy named Cricket. Riley can't wait to meet Cricket when we return to Washington!

Pal Jenna joined us for the U23D movie at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum as part of a sleepover get-together. Jenna and her mother, Cathy, will be visiting us in Aix in late March.

Mal hosted a lunch with several friends at one of her favorite restaurants, Two Amy's. Andy, Jenna and ballet pals Emelia and Eliza had ball!

After the lunch, Mallory spent the night with Eliza. They delighted us with a few dance performances the next morning. It was wonderful to see Mallory dance again! She also attended her ballet class at the Washington School of Ballet and was quite impressed with how her friends have advanced over the past six months.

Shane spent the night with pal Charlie.

Shane and several pre-school buddies (along with their parents who are our dear friends) had a WILD night of pizza and ping pong at another favorite night spot, Comet Pizza! Shane had a blast with Collin, Caleb, Xavey, Charlie and Robbie.

Danielle and Mal enjoy bento boxes at Raku on our last day in Washington.

Shane and Collin slurp up miso soup and shrimp tempura.

We will miss our good friends AND our sushi :-)

Shane at Dulles Airport where the United Airlines agent almost prevented us from returning to France with the children. Long story short, after close to 45 minutes, she finally relented and realized that our Carte de Sejour cards were enough to return to France!